| Cleaning | Polishing | Full Restoration | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fixes | Surface grime and road film | Light haze, early oxidation | Yellowing, deep oxidation, cloudiness |
| Method | Wash, no machine work | Machine polish, no sanding | Wet sanding, machine polish, UV sealant |
| UV sealant included | No | Not on its own | Yes |
| How long it lasts | Until the next drive in bad weather | Months, if the lens was barely oxidized | Years, with the sealant maintained |
| Typical price | Part of a regular wash | From 100 KM per vehicle | From 100 KM per vehicle, more stages if heavily oxidized |
Recommendation for Sarajevo
Sarajevo summers put enough UV on a headlight that most cars move from 'a polish will do' to 'needs full restoration' within about a year of the haze first appearing. If you have noticed your headlights starting to cloud over, that is the cheapest this job ever gets: a polish now versus multi-stage sanding next summer. In winter, check first that what you are seeing is not just salt film, since a wash clears that and costs nothing.
Cleaning: when the haze is really just dirt
Road film, dust from unpaved stretches in summer, and salt spray in winter all build up a grey haze on the outside of the lens that can look like oxidation from a few metres away. If a proper wash with a bit of effort clears most of it, the lens was just dirty and you are done. This is worth trying before you book anything, because it costs nothing and rules out the cheapest possibility first.
Polishing: light haze on a lens that's still mostly clear
Headlight polishing uses a machine polish and a mild compound to remove a thin layer of surface haze and oxidation without wet sanding. It works when the lens is only lightly clouded and has not turned yellow yet, common on vehicles around three to five years old that have had some sun but not years of it. It is quicker than full restoration and restores most of the clarity, but on its own it does not include the sanding stages or the UV sealant, so if the oxidation runs deeper than a surface film it will come back.
Restoration: deep oxidation, yellowing, or a lens where polishing has already failed
Full restoration is the multi-stage process: wet sanding through progressively finer grits to cut the oxidized layer right off, machine polishing to optical clarity, then a UV-resistant sealant so the bare polycarbonate does not immediately start oxidizing again. This is what genuinely yellowed lenses need, and it is also the right call if a cheaper polish elsewhere cleared up for a few weeks and then went hazy again, which means the oxidation was always deeper than a polish could reach.
Why the sealant is the part that actually matters
Whichever route you take, the lasting result comes from what goes on afterward. Restoration removes the factory UV coating along with the oxidation, so without a fresh UV sealant the clarity you just paid for starts degrading within months. A polish with no sealant has the same problem. When you compare quotes, the question that matters is not how many sanding stages are involved, it is whether a proper UV sealant is included and what is guaranteed on it.
Send a photo of your headlights taken in daylight and we'll tell you honestly whether they need a wash, a polish, or full restoration.
Get a QuoteFrequently Asked Questions
Can I just keep polishing the headlights every year instead of restoring them?
You can, but you are paying repeatedly for a temporary result. Polishing without a UV sealant lets the bare plastic re-oxidize within months, so you are back where you started each time. One proper restoration with a sealant lasts years and usually works out cheaper over time.
Is toothpaste or a DIY kit the same as polishing?
Not really. DIY abrasives can lift very light haze briefly, but they do not remove the full oxidized layer and do not include a UV sealant, so the haze returns within weeks. In terms of how long it lasts, it is closer to a wash than a polish.
How do I know if my lens needs polishing or full restoration?
Rough guide: if the lens is hazy but still fairly clear and not yellow, polishing may be enough. If it is visibly yellow, or a polish elsewhere has already failed on it, it needs restoration. We inspect both lenses and tell you which, since oxidation is often uneven between the two sides.
Do you offer polishing as a separate, cheaper service?
We quote after seeing the lenses. If a light polish is genuinely all a lens needs, that is what we will do, and it will not be priced as a full restoration. If it needs the sanding stages, we will tell you before starting rather than polish it, watch it fail, and have you back in a month.
Selman
Selmo Garage Sarajevo